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Peak Mountain 3

Ruper to Grand Giraffe

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Description

I am listing this separately in the hopes of attaining more info, and because this route shares only the first 15 feet of climbing with

Ruper

, and from it, one can not get back to the the

Ruper

line. A line was in Rossiter's old book, Boulder Climbs South and is no longer present. Andy Donson suggested this line to me as an alternative to lower

Grand Giraffe

when we arrived at the same time and place.

I am interested in the history of this line and on what others think the grade/runout of it is like.

To climb a 5.8 variation of lower

Ruper

or lower

Grand Giraffe

, start as for

Ruper

and climb up the thin crack for 15 feet. At this point, a small tree is to your left (with slings) and the route goes right. Rather than going right, the route stays left. You keep going straight up, staying near the arete and climbing up to a point below the left-leaning, thin-crack section of

Grand Giraffe

. Staying lower and left of that section both avoids drag and to covers new ground and unique ground. After perhaps 30-35 meters, you reach the ledge from which you can left to climb the easy, wide pitch of

Grand Giraffe

to reach the belay below the OW on

Grand Giraffe

. This can be done in under 60 meters if you don't wander your rope around too much with gear. Finish on

Grand Giraffe

,

Electric Aunt Jemima

, or

Art's Spar

.

Protection

A normal Eldo rack including a good selection of stoppers & cams. There are short runouts above reasonable gear, but is on par for Eldo at this grade.


Routes in Redgarden - Tower One


  1. 62
    Ruper to Grand Giraffe
    5.8+
    Trad