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Peak Mountain 3

Consummation Nite

FA Christian Griffith and Dale Goddard 1984
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A sweet line and a natural final pitch after

Vertigo

,

Doub-Griffith

,

Super Slab

, etc.... Or upon rapping

CC

, do this and rap it again.

From the base of

Chockstone Chimney

, step right and climb R facing corner to where you can traverse R. across face (same as

Italian Arete

, I believe). From the arete, climb straight up over roof, passing obvious horn (I slung it as this feels a bit committing). Then follow crack system to the top, passing crux thin section on overhanging, neon lichen face (looks like it could be a closed seam from the ground, it's not!), cool moves!. Move left up high and pull the upper roof at a hand crack. Belay on large ledge to hear your 2nd better or wander to the top on easy but blocky rock.

This line is reasonably protected (YMMV, use your best judgment) and super fun!

NOTE: This route may have suspect rock in places, so climb accordingly. I cleaned most of the portable handholds off but....

The crux section, however, seemed bomber.

Location

Start at the base of

Body Tremors

and

Chockstone Chimney

. Top out where Italian Arete does and walk back down to do

Chockstone Chimney

rap.

Protection

A double set of cams through #3 Camalot and a set of nuts is more than enough. Doubles in #3 and #2 sizes were way nice. A green Alien slotted just when you want it. A bunch of shoulder slings and a couple doubles.


Routes in Redgarden - Tower One


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    Consummation Nite
    5.11a
    Trad