Superspar

This is a combination of the first two pitches of

Super Slab

, and the second two of

Art's Spar

. The first pitch is a .10c undercling flake with decent holds, yet still pumpy climbing. Above the pitch traverses left along a line of pins over nebulous terrain. The second and third pitches can be combined with a two hundred foot rope to a belay at the base of a famous offwidth called

Grand Giraffe

. The last pitch is the crux, it is rated .10c in most guidebooks, but it is possibly a full grade harder now. A local climber informed me a hold has broken in the crack that now makes the move much harder than .10c. The line is obvious, jam out a completely horizontal 6' roof. This is a very intimidating and exposed crux. The hardest part is making a long move to the lip will completely horizontal. This section really surprised me (it spit me off), make no mistake it is solid 5.11, I thought it was a full grade harder than

Tagger

(.10c) which is a similar climb. There is an easier option to the left called

Electric Aunt Jemima

that goes at .10c, although the pro looks a little friable (#0 TCUs?). The roof on Super Spar is well protected at least.

Bring a standard rack. A bunch of pins protect the first pitch.