Disclosure (new name)

One-and-a-half stars. This pitch starts as for

Art's Spar

, and then jogs up and left throught the steep bulge, to finish on the Upper Ramp just right of

Grand Giraffe

. Approach by starting up Ruper or (for a more strenuous warm-up) the first pitch of

Super Slab

. Belay in the large right-facing dihedral, just as for

Art's Spar

. Climb as for

Art's Spar

for about twenty feet, then where

Art's Spar

moves right under the obvious roof, arrange some RPs (large ones) and figure out the committing moves up and left. You can step right to get a hands-off rest, between attempts on the moves. Once you commit, you'll discover that there is in fact a jug on the lip, just as you were hoping. There is also a bomber wire. Resist the temptation to hang on the wire, (ahem, like I did) because from here just a couple more strenuous moves (bit of a reach) gain a welcome rest, and good views into the intestinal tract of the

Grand Giraffe

, just left. The Upper Ramp is just above.

The pitch is awkward and strenuous, and the crux is comparable to say the overhang of

Rain

. One day the entire flake (where the bomber wire, that you were not supposed to hang on, goes) will fall off, but probably not while you are on it.. :

Bring some RPs and wires to protect the approach to the crux. There is also a large Alien, about 1.5" in a pocket. There is a bomber medium wire at the lip. The gear is good, but awkward to arrange. Most of the wires before the crux are behind small flakes, but there is also a good straight-in large-RP slot if you look carefully. Double-rope technique helps. Possibly serious, maybe "s" because you do have to commit to the crux, and you would slap into the steep slab below if you blow it at the lip before clipping the "Thank God" wire.