The Untouchables

The Untouchables is a fun, little, sport climbing diversion in the

Apple Strudel

area. It's characterized by solid rock, good holds, and bouldery moves.

Begin a few feet right of

AS

, placing a finger-sized piece to protect a few moves up to the first bolt. Traverse right, then punch it through the next two bolts (crux) on surprisingly positive crimps and sidepulls. Resist the temptation to climb right into

Ignition

, but rather finish the crux up and left on progressively better holds. One more bolt gets you to the 3 bolt anchor shared with

Apple Strudel

.

A second pitch has been recently bolted, and goes up and right from the anchor, over a roof, and then up the crimpy face above. The crux (11b) is probably establishing on the face after a few juggy roof moves.

I was a bit confused on the second pitch. After clipping a few normally spaced bolts on the face above the roof, I climbed a ways above the last bolt, aiming for what looked like a crack system. A tricky and lichen-ous move guarded the crack, though, so I opted to downclimb, traverse well to the left, and then traverse back on easier ground. I'm not sure if this is the path that the FAs intended, or if they went straight up to the crack, with potential for a big (but probably clean) fall. Follow your nose.

To descend from the second pitch, walk to the climber's left to the bolted West Chimney raps.

This is just right of

Apple Strudel

.

Follow the Redgarden trail up the West face, towards

The Yellow Spur

area. This route is on a clean, brown plaque of rock between the

YS

and the

Dirty Deed

Chimney.

A finger-size cam at the start, then QDs. Bring a light rack for the 2nd pitch.