I Can't Copeland Free

An obvious and aesthetic line up the angling seam crossing the immaculate panel of rock shared with

The Vaporizer

, I Can't Copeland follows an improbable line of offsets and water sculpted holds up one of the more colorful sections of rock in Eldo.

Technical climbing off the belay protects with a tips sized cam and then a bolt. Clip a bolt at the sloping ledge above, and move up to a good rail. Place gear for the first crux, two small but bomber cams in excellent rock. Execute the first crux (12), clip a bolt, and then enjoy a hands free rest. Continue past another bolt into the very technical and tenuous second crux (12+), with committing 12 moves above and right of the last bolt. Clip a hidden bolt up and left with a sling to protect your follower. Finish by traversing right into the finishing bulge of

The Vaporizer

, clipping the first of the two bolts with a sling to reduce drag. Build a belay at the roof overlap and scramble off to the right.

Thanks to ACE for approving the route and providing the hardware.

Start on the large angling ledge shared with

The Vaporizer

up and left of that route on the other side of the small tree.

The highest quality approach is via the first pitch of I Can't Copeland, followed by the excellent Blunt Buttress, past a 5.9 corner to the base of the route.

5 quickdraws and 2 extendable slings for bolts; a yellow Alien, 0.5 and 0.75 for the belay below the pitch; two red c3/black totem/green Alien-sized pieces and a 0 (purple Metolius or green c3) for pro; and a 0.4, 0.75, and #1 for the top anchor.