Book of Numbers

A somewhat controversial free climb back in '86, this rarely climbed route really should see more traffic. Book of Numbers is a 2 pitch route that strays slightly from the aid line on P1, then reconnects with the original line on P2. It's an exciting excursion up the steep wall and corners left of Genesis. The pitches were originally worked and freed separately, but the climb was redpointed in a single pitch (lots of rope drag--not recommended). Start as for

Anthill Direct

or on the ledge for

Genesis

.

Pitch 1: 5.12b, 90'. Wander up

Anthill Direct

for about 50' to an old bolt, aiming for a 4' overhang followed by a shallow corner with a line of old pins. Pull past the overhang (.10+, #4 Friend), up the corner, and then move right past 2 bolts on a bulging, blank face (crux) to a 2-bolt anchor.

Pitch 2: 5.12c/d, 60'. Move up the steep, right-facing, right-leaning dihedral (.11) past pins and bolts. The crux comes about 30' up by a ring bolt. It involves some awkward laybacking and wild positioning. Finish through the roof atop the dihedral (.11, large Friends), then flip left onto an easy slab. There was an old fixed belay about 25' higher from which you could rap--I'm not sure what its present condition is.

Both pitches are good, but P1 gets done more than P2 partly because P2 had a reputation as an ankle breaker. Two prominent climbers did get injured on the 2nd ascent. The ring bolt was added later, and now this pitch is far safer. Book of Numbers is another unique Eldo route that combines a little history with feel of a modern sport climb.

Wires through 4". Quick draws and long slings.