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Peak Mountain 3

East Side

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Description

This is a climb somewhat reminiscent of

The Bulge

but less direct and less impressive. The nature of the climbing and gear, and their respective difficulties, however, is the same.

Start form a point on the trail a few meters above the tall pine growing at the cliff base. Climb up and slightly left on low angle, easy rock until a right-leaning, rising ramp can be traversed upward, with a crack/flack just over it. Follow this flake to its end, cutting back left below a steep and flat headwall, again following lower angle rock and flakes above this, staying just below the bulge overhead. Pull out left into cracks at a near-vertical section, finagle some gear in, the head back out right onto a ledge with a medium-sized pine tree and belay. Although you are perhaps only 80-90' off of the ground, you will have climbed about 115' feet of rock to arrive here along the way to avoid the difficult plumb-line, which is more or less the climb 'Genuine Risk.'

Location

This route starts as for Genuine Risk. Go uphill along the Bulge Wall for some distance toward the Hawk-Eagle Ridge or

Wind Ridge

belay base. A tall, thin, lone pine tree is passed just a few meters before you encounter a low angle section below some massive flakes that form a series of zig-zag flakes and ramps that climb upward for 90' to a shelf with a belay tree. This is where the climb starts.

Protection

A standard light rack of nuts and cams with lots of long slings. A tree with bothersomely low branches provides the most solid belay anchor and can be used to rap, but there is an unlikely-looking walk/scramble off past that ledge into the Hawk-Eagle Ridge gully area.


Routes in Redgarden - S Buttress


  1. 60
    East Side
    5.7
    Trad