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Peak Mountain 3

Chromium Shore

FA Mike Brooks and Chris Snyder, 1980
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is pretty fun, worthy of 1+ star alone, but since it is a variation of the 2nd pitch of

Anthill Direct

, it requires some brilliant climbing to get to it and after it. It gets 2+ stars overall. This pitch adds to

Anthill Direct

in terms of difficulty, and if you've done

A.H.D.

a few times, perhaps a 'new territory' pitch is a refreshing change. It is harder, more thought provoking, and a wee bit difficult to protect in one spot.

P1: Climb the first few feet of

Anthill Direct's

second pitch, and just as it becomes a handcrack, move out and right up a clean slab to intersect a steep crack and buttress on the right. Climb a thin, dark crack and flake up past a 9+ (or perhaps 5.10, as my partner suggested) move to reach good clings and locks, then continue on good gear to the top, stepping left on a big ledge to the

Anthill Direct

belay. (2 pins + supplemental gear). Continue with

Anthill Direct

.

Protection

A standard light rack predominantly below 1.5." The crux would ideally have a better directional than I got to keep the crux stopper from popping out... if you popped and it popped, you are certainly going to get hurt. I might have just lazily missed the best pro.


Routes in Redgarden - S Buttress


  1. 7
    Chromium Shore
    5.9+
    Trad