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Peak Mountain 3

Something on the Side

FA Trevor Bowman and Emily Reinsel 6/2/18
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

If you find that the moderate climbing of the upper corner on Marriage of Convenience is too milquetoast to keep your interest, perhaps it's time to dabble with this tantalizing little morsel. This hanging splitter variation is on the panel just left of the upper corner of Marriage, and like a mistress, sits just out of arm's reach of the main system.

Burl through the awesome power layback/stemfest of the lower corner on Marriage, and ramble up the moderate left-facing corner a bit. Reach left and clip a bolt, and execute a delicate traverse on small edges to fall into the thankfully offset, tight handcrack. Jam up this toothy splitter for 20' on mostly tight hands to an anchor jug. This variation provides a more balanced finish for Marriage, and clocks in at 5.11-.

The hanging splitter continues below the entrance traverse utilized here, but a low traverse looks much more difficult, there are some large dubious flakes guarding the splitter, and the crack starts as steep .2 sized splitter. Some ragingly hard person should check it out, it could provide a stout line!

Location

The hanging splitter just left of the upper corner on Marriage of Convenience. Refer to that description for approach beta.

Protection

4 bolts, (1X) red C3-#2 BD sizes with (2X) #1 BD C4, draws/slings, clip-and-lower anchors.


Routes in Shangri La


  1. 14
    Something on the Side
    5.11c
    Alpine · Trad