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Peak Mountain 3

Sine Wave

FA A Mollard, K. Shuster, R. Suggett, 6/2018
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Touchy moves on gritty rock get you past the first bolt (may want to stick-clip or come in from the right), in an out of a short dihedral with great edges, and on the face immediately left of the arête.

Move up this steepening feature until the holds disappear around the fifth bolt then unleash your inner yoga master and bust through the crux, a strange transition around the arête and onto a cracked slab to your right.

Compose yourself and launch up this tasty panel, using small edges later supplemented by a thin vertical curtain (pull down, not out). An awkward mantle caps the slab, depositing you on a small ledge. Cross the arête again and continue up the steep left headwall on good edges until you reach the last bolt. Shuffle around the corner one last time to reach the anchors on the right headwall.

Despite periodic oscillations around the arête the rope runs straight and never crosses sharp edges. The rock quality goes from OK to impeccable, the movement is thought provoking (especially on the OS), the route is long and sustained, and the distance between bolts always in the back of the mind. All of the stars but it's the style I prefer so take it with a grain of salt.

Location

The Sine Wave is located on one of the prominent semi-detached towers sitting directly above the Shangri-La trail, a minutes and about 200' past where the trail reaches the base of the cliff and splits.

Looks for a line of fat bolts snaking back and forth across a blunt arete down low with a delicate curtain of rock leading into inverted-staircase roofs up high. The route starts right off the trail and follows a thin diagonal crack into the bolt line.

Protection

11 (or 12) bolts to chain anchors (shared with the route tom the right)

Full

60 m rope.


Routes in Shangri La


  1. 23
    Sine Wave
    5.11d
    Sport · Alpine