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Peak Mountain 3

The Shangorilla

FA Trevor Bowman and Emily Reinsel, 6/1/18
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A striking, narrowing splitter that is mostly offwidth, but climbs much more friendly than it looks from the ground. In fact, it can be scaled using very little stacking or thrutching thanks to good face features--a sport climber-approved wide crack!

Surmount some boulders and step into a bulging, tight handcrack in a right-facing corner immediately left of the offwidth splitter. (If you are a true gorilla, and overhanging tight #1s are terrible for you, you could start up the OW proper instead).  A couple strenuous jams get you past the start, followed by a bit of stemming, before committing to the OW. The initial section of OW is a bad size (large #6 C4) for a bit, but faceholds keep it reasonable. The crack then progressively pinches down to hands and a great jug to clip the anchor.

Location

A narrowing splitter on a west-facing panel about 15' right of High-Hanging Fruit Snacks, a couple of hundred yards left of the Cannibalistic Tendencies zone.

Protection

(1X).75 (2X) #1 (1X) #2, #3, #4 (2X) #5, #6 BD C4 sizes, clip-and-lower anchors.


Routes in Shangri La


  1. 9
    The Shangorilla
    5.10
    Alpine · Trad