Maneater

The wide chimney system separating the pillar with Cannibalistic Tendencies from the adjacent wall provides a wild cragging odyssey. It offers pretty clean rock, adequate pro for a chimney route, and some unique positions where multiple chimneys converge and pillars diverge. We trundled anything that we could get off by hand on the ground-up FA, which included some big blocks. There are probably some small bits remaining to be aware of. Worth a spin for the chimney connoisseur.

We started with the 15' fistcrack (5.9) immediately right of the start of Can. Ten. to get to the large rubble ledge which is the shared start with Queen of Shangri-La. However, Roy installed a via ferratta access to this ledge the next day, which starts

just right of the fistcrack. The ferrata and a high belay on the ledge probably makes the most sensible option. From the rubble ledge, burrow into the chimney system, tunneling under a large chockstone, and follow a short handcrack corner near the outside of the chimney for a bit. Once the handcrack ends, burrow even deeper to a major dihedral which is the juncture of a couple of chimneys. There is a handcrack in the dihedral which is followed to the top. About a body-length below the true topout, where the rock becomes the typical Jungle-top shattered blocks, a tiny ledge can be traversed toward the outside edge of the chimney (facing Queen of Shangri-La)

to anchors. I placed them here for rope-pull (which worked well) but they aren't comfortable to belay from, so I recommend the leader lowers to the ledge/ground.

The obvious major chimney just right of Cannibalistic Tendencies.

(1X) .3-.5 (2X) .75-#3 (1X) #4 (if doing fistcrack start) BD sizes, slings, chain/cold shut anchor.