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Peak Mountain 3

The King of Tulips

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Description

Same start as Dizzy Gillespie and same top out ledge but you bust up and right through the steepest part of the shield roof on delux quartzite rails, at the cusp it turns into large flakes. A #2 and .5 protected below the crux for me but other gear can surely be found.  Stay on the right side of this wall for interesting flakey mellow moderate climbing to the top with plenty of gear. This is a rope stretcher of a route, it is every bit of 65m a 70m rope is highly recomended. #1/2 placement on the top out ledge down low.

My rack for this route:

C4    .3-3

X4     .1-.75

C3      00-1

I cleaned a couple loose flakes from just above the crux, seems pretty clean at this point but always test holds.

Some of the smaller gear is not needed and you may want more .4-.75 gear than that, probably 15 runners.

For

friends I’ll never meet.

Location

Right of dopey duck start in the corner and gun it for the roof, see topo on the photo

Protection

100% trad


Routes in Shortoff Mountain


  1. 22
    The King of Tulips
    5.9+
    Trad