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Peak Mountain 3

White Corner

FA Ralph Fickel, Jeep Barrett, 1982
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Great mix of stemming, jamming, and jug pulling. NOTE: The route length includes the approach pitch (whichever you choose) to get to the Corner, which begins about 100' up the wall.

P1: Climb either

White Russians Gone Bananas

(11a) or

Early Times

(9) to access the corner. 100'

P2: Stem, jam, and pull your way through the corner, eventually exiting to the right below a roof. Belay shortly after moving out of the corner. NOTE: There is a variation, Sword of the Lord, that takes off to the left somewhere up here. It's described in the book, but I haven't done it. 10a, 60'.

P3: Pull a steep roof just above the belay and continue up lower and lower angle terrain. Set a belay when it's convenient. 5.9, 150'.

Location

Locate the very large left-facing corner directly above White Russians Gone Bananas, about 100' up.

Protection

Standard Shortoff rack (set of stoppers, doubles from blue TCU-#1 camalot, 1 #2)


Routes in Shortoff Mountain


  1. 17
    White Corner
    5.10a
    Trad