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Peak Mountain 3

Paradise Alley

FA Tom Howard, Bill Newman - 1979
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A great route with the first 3 pitches offering spectacular climbing and great protection. A Shortoff classic! This is not a recommended climb for aspiring 5.8 leaders.

P1 (crux). Climb the hand-sized crack through the overhang and continue to the obvious belay in an alcove. 5.8+, 120'

P2. Trend left and up to base of gently overhanging wall. 5.7, 100'

P3. Climb the incredible wall on insanely positive incut holds with a vertical crack that eats gear. Bushwack up beyond the top to large level area. 5.7, 70'

P4. Surmount large block accross gap. Easier on right. 5.8, 60'

Hike back to trail, turn right then back to camp or descent.

Location

Turn right at base of descent gully and hike for a while. The trail leaves the base of the cliff then returns near it. Keep a lookout for the hand crack through an overhang close to the ground that starts the route.

Protection

One of everything. Large cams will be helpful on P1 but not necessary.


Routes in Shortoff Mountain


  1. 5
    Paradise Alley
    5.8+
    Trad