Immaculate Conception

Immaculate Conception is a really awesome trad pitch that would be a total classic were it not for some loose holds high on the pitch. From below, this thing is intimidating, but as you climb, the secrets reveal themselves and it all comes together. So good!

Approach via either the first three pitches of Pro Choice (recommended) or Senior Dimensions (not recommended) and set up your base camp on the Party Ledge. Climb the first bit of P4 of Senior Dimensions (the short left-facing corner), but stay in the corner at first and then continue up a steep, left-leaning crack. This will bring you to jugs below the blunt upper arete. Thin moves up the arete give way to easier face climbing (and a few portable holds near the top). Ultimately, you’ll reach a bolted anchor shared with Pro Life on a ledge out left.

Descend with an 80m rope (watch the ends) or two ropes.

Of the five pitches that begin from high on this section of the wall (Pro Choice, Pro Life, Immaculate Conception, Corruption of the Jesuit, and Senior Dimensions) this is my favorite and arguably the best.

Starts from the Party Ledge atop P3 of Pro Choice or Senior Dimensions.

2x Small to 0.5 Camalot. 1x 0.75, #1 Camalot. Wires. 80m rope or two ropes.