Time's Up

Time's Up is the sister route to Nightcrawler, taking on the left side of the Hourglass feature. Start the route by scrambling up easy, low-angled rock as high as comfortable before roping up.It seems that the red book left out a pitch in the description, so I'll just describe the route as the anchors are setup. See the notes below regarding linkups, etc.P1: Start on a face and crack that leads up to the left side of the Hourglass. Parts of this pitch are in a shallow left-facing corner; others are on a looser face with cracks. The pitch ends at a 2-bolt anchor. 100 ft, 5.9.P2: Continue up the cracks and corner with the corner becoming steeper. The rock quality is questionable in spots, but overall a good pitch. Finish up by moving a bit right and mantling onto a good ledge with two bolts. 90 ft, 5.10a.P3: Step right to the chimney/wide crack that faces left. The bolt frequency really starts to pick up here. Follow the crack from chimney to fists, where it suddenly tapers to tips (purple tcu). Utilize face holds to stem up the corner, eventually stepping right to a stance on the arete with a few bolts. 50 ft, 5.10+.P4: The business. Step back left into a chimney. Wiggle a short distance to its end and move into a layback to overcome a chockstone. Continue up the wide crack as it leans and widens to a bomb bay chimney. Move out left with the chimney to a roof with a perfect dihedral above it. Exiting the roof may remind you of southeast roof climbing, but without the spiders and bugs. The dihedral above the roof is the crux and is desperately thin in places. Thankfully, between all the old bolts and a few spots that widen up, pro is good. You'll find a 2-bolt anchor 25 ft over the roof in a cramped corner with a small roof overhead. This is a horrible belay- see suggestions below for how to avoid it. 110 ft, 5.11+.P5: As good as the previous 2 pitches were, this one is at the other end of the spectrum. Stem up out of the horrible hanging belay, praying a hold doesn't break and you land on your belayer. Pass several bolts and disgusting rotten rock, eventually reaching better rock. An offwidth roof formed by a left-facing flake should be looming over you at this point. Climb up to the roof, then move right a few steps, following the old bolts out onto an easy face. Follow this to the top of the pillar and a great ledge. Alternatively, you could always go left out the roof and follow the flake/dihedral to the ledge. Either way, this pitch is anything but spectacular and is a major disappointment after the 2 prior pitches. 160 ft, 5.10-.P6: Climb P5 of Nightcrawler- splitter crack to a roof, then up right over a roof to an anchor. 80 ft, 5.8R.Notes: P1,2 are easy linkups if you start the route from a high ledge. A 60m cord reaches just barely. One of the lower pitches seems to be left-out in the red book. Hopefully, you won't be confused by the discrepancy between this description and the guide. There are many, many bolts on the crux pitches. Expect to need to clip some unless you're a stud on the rp action. To avoid the horrible belay stance on top of P4, climb past the 2 bolt anchor. Stop about 25 ft into pitch 5 at a stance on black rock with a bolt a few feet above. Save a piece or two in the 1/2"-1" range to back up the bolt. This still isn't a great spot, but its works better than the standard belay. P3,4 are excellent pitches and if it wasn't for the pitches above, this route would be 4 stars.

This route is on the Brownstone wall. It is the prominent left-facing corner that makes up the left side of the Hourglass feature. It gets good morning and early afternoon sun.

There are many bolts on this route (p3, 4 have a bolt almost every body length), if you trust them, you can get away with a small rack and lots of draws. Otherwise, a single set of cams from 00 metolius to 5 friend, rps, and lots of draws are recomended. Most of the belays have at least one newer 3/8" bolt. 2 60m cords are needed to rap down The Nightcrawler.