Sweet Thin

OVERVIEW If Armatron gets two stars in Handren's guide Sweet Thin deserves three. The route shares the first two pitches of Armatron (including the uneventful crux) before whisking you off to a unique balancey fifth pitch followed by a flaring chimney/offwidth one. The FA is unlisted in Handren's book. The route is south-facing; however, note that it goes into the shade in the afternoon in the winter.

ROUTE

P1 (5.8, 100') Climb the first pitch of Armatron, which takes up and left past 6 bolts over a brief section of soft white sandstone and onto the dark varnished plates from which Brownstone Wall gets its name. Fixed anchor.

P2 (5.9, 125') Climb the second pitch of Armatron, starting off with an excellent 30' thin crack on solid varnish. As the angle steepens go right to a huge horn and pull the bolt-protected crux by mantling onto the horn. Traverse right to another thin crack, aiming for the base of a left-facing corner with a fixed belay.

P3 (5.6, 80') Head up an easy corner to chimney. Pull a roof on big jugs and step left to a ledge with a fixed anchor. Pitches 3 and 4 can be linked with significant rope drag per Dow, an option which I avoided.

P4 (5.7, 95') Traverse left to a fixed belay below a tree and the bolted flake for which the climb was named.

P5 (5.9, 110') Make your way onto the thin, balancey flake. The flake is flexy and gear placements are not very useful for most of the way. Fortunately, the flake is well protected with bolts. At the top of the flake move right and mantle onto a small ledge, then make a horizontal traverse to a bush. From there a fine hand crack leads to the anchor.

P6 (5.9, 90') Climb the flaring chimney (or the face to its left) to offwidth. A double #3 would be nice to have here. At the top traverse right to a fixed anchor on a prominent ledge.

P7 (5.8, 130') Move the belay left at the base of a short offwidth. Grunt up the offwidth then traverse left to a ledge. Head up a short but slightly overhung finger crack, which eases up after a few moves. Continue up on softer white sandstone to the top of the subsidiary summit.

To reach the summit of Juniper Peak choose one of the easy ramp systems.

APPROACH

Park at either Pine Creek or Oak Creek and follow the trails heading into Juniper Canyon. From Pine Creek a more direct route is to take the second entrance to the signed Fire Ecology trail and aim straight for the canyon (avoiding the two meandering Fire Ecology loops). The Fire Ecology trail is well maintained and as of Nov 2010 the climbers' offshoot was easy to find. The trail from Oak Creek is of similar distance but flatter.

Once in Juniper Canyon there are multiple trails, the better of which skirt the south side of the canyon. You'll end up passing below Jack Rabbit Buttress to your right and Crimson Chrysalis/Cloud Tower to your left. Brownstone sits opposite the prominent green lichen-covered Rainbow Wall (similar elevation). Brownstone is obvious from its large amounts of dark varnish. Expect some minor boulder hopping and bushwhacking. You'll briefly head up a small pile of talus before winding your way up the slabs. Juniper Peak is a local summit objective for hikers so the route is well cairned. Watch for ice on the slabs during colder months. Sweet Thin is on north Brownstone Wall (the wall to your right as you approach). Expect ~1.5 hours for the approach.

Alternatively, cruise one of the easier routes on Jackrabbit Buttress (e.g. Rose Hips or Myster Z). At the top make your way west over to the base of the route.

DESCENT

From the summit of Juniper Peak scramble down the north side (there should be cairns) and back around to the base of the route (if you left gear).

Per Handren single rack to #6, double #1.5-4. I brought a single to #5 (no nuts), but would have preferred a single to #2 with double #3. Bring a few double length slings in addition to regular ones. Fixed anchors and a lot of bolts.