- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is the route between the
Manganese Direct
and
The Devil
, up the right margin of the
Earth Angel
headwall. It starts off twin seams above the small ledge left of
The Devil
, goes over a small roof (you may share a fingerlock or two with
The Devil
), then trends left into the hanging corner. Originally, there was a crux getting around the arete (going left), but the more logical sequence goes right up the nice laybacks in the corner then moves back left higher at your convenience. Mark Rolofson was nice enough to put the hanger back on the original bolt I'd drilled out right, so that you can go either way through this section.
Above the crux, you can stay left to climb the flared crack/pods, ending at the chains below the big block, or bear-hug along the right arete. The first lead stayed on the mossy right side of the arete to finish, which is probably much cleaner now than it was in 2007.
Location
This is ten feet left of
The Devil
, Tarot Wall.
Protection
Eight or 9 [or 10] bolts to double-bolt anchors.
Routes in Tarot Wall
- 4The Constant Gardener5.12bSport