- Edit (TBD)
Description
The fifth bolted line from the left on Tarot Wall. Start 20' right of The Fool and 15' left of
Wheel of Fortune
, at a face leading to a big roof.
Climb the moderate face with a couple of harder moves to the left edge of the big roof above. Pull left around the roof to a ledge then step back right above the roof onto a knobby face. Enter the right-facing corner above. At its top exit left and up easy climbing to the anchor.
Rossiter rates this 10a, but I felt it was significantly easier than its neighbor
Wheel of Fortune
, also rated 10a by Rossiter. There were no specific crux moves.
Protection
12 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. Bring a few longer runners for the bolts just below the roof. 60m rope required to rap or lower.
This should have been left as a trad climb. There is good and easily-placed gear at every bolt except for the third bolt.
Routes in Tarot Wall
- 8The Tower5.10aSport