Earth Angel

Avalon's first and hardest sport route, Earth Angel, is the stunning arête/face on the far left side of Tarot Wall. It's hard to believe a route this good hasn't seen a second ascent (as per Rolofson's new guide book) until today; however, we did find the route somewhat dirty and lichen-covered in places so it is possible.

Face climb past 3 bolts to a good stance below the roof. Crank over the roof (12a) and ascend the very sustained and technical face above. A wild dynamic move (spectacular position) at mid-height onto the arête yields the crux. A couple more awkward 5.11 moves and the difficulties abate. I would agree w/ Horan's original rating of 12d.

10 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor; optional gear for finish (last 20 feet).