Over the Roof

Variety of fun moves, one or two a bit harder than the rest. . . . (Perhaps this route overall goes easier at 5.4 or 5.3 if choose every easier variation).

. . . The two pitches can be combined, but then if Top-Roping in the normal way from the bottom, using a normal dynamic rope, if the climber falls near the bottom, then due to rope stretch the fall could be longer or harder and the climber could be injured. So if trying it that way, likely better to instead use a static (or "semi-static") rope. Or at least keep the climber under tension while close to the bottom of the route.

P1: Start at the base of the non-tall ridge which slants down right from the big slanting roof. Up that ridge (with a steep thoughtful move early) - trending slightly left to climb onto the top of the big rock which caps the big slanting roof. . . . Variation 1a (avoids thoughtful move lower on ridge, and still fun anyway): Start in the alcove under the big roof. See two slanted protruding rocks below right from the big slanting roof rock. Climb up each of those, and join the main route up face onto top of roof rock. . . . Variation 1b (harder): Instead of joining the main route, up the left edge of the face to the top of roof rock. . . . Variation 1c (5.8-): Pull up over roof at obvious notch a bit right below from the center of the big roof rock. . . . Variation 2 (easier): From the ledge below top of big roof rock, instead of climbing face to top of roof rock,go more toward right side of that face, then turn left and partway up rock forming top of big roof. Next step right (without touching down onto dirt in between) over onto the next slabby rock, and up that to its top.

From the top of the big roof rock, step Right down into notch, then up onto next rock. Up a few feet to belay from large two-trunk tree.

P2: Next angle up Right across gentler rock to reach big left-facing inside corner just below two slanting trees at top of corner. . . Variation: Also interesting to to traverse horizontal right across genler rock to reach the base of the big left-facing inside corner, then up along inside left side of that corner (shared with next route to right) to reach steeper "step" in the rock just below left from two slanting trees.

Up left side of tree (crux - easier if grab tree). . . Variation (also interesting): Around right side of tree.

Next up face staying just left of 4-6-inch wide crack. Finish to right side of top of face with slanting tree branch across from its right side (perhaps ducking under the branch).

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber or someone setting up top anchor.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2018. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

Start under the obvious big slanting roof with left-trending ramp underneath, which is near the SouthWest corner of this ciiff.

• • See on this Photo

. . . . or on this Photo

Top-Rope: For ideas how to set up anchor for Top-Roping, see Description page for this sector Smiley Slopes.

warning: If belaying for Top-Roping in the usual way from the bottom, using a normal dynamic climbing rope could result in a long injurious fall if the climber hangs or falls in the lower part of this route (because of "rope stretch" on a route this long). Therefore consider instead use a static or semi-static rope (instead of normal dynamic rope), or belay from near the top of the route (instead of the bottom).

Static line or several long slings needed to Top-Rope from the (mid-way) two-trunk tree anchor between Pitch 1 and Pitch 2.

Lead: Couple of run-out segments (including one of the first moves), and the upper part is run-out if do not bring a couple of really big cams. Some of the protection placements might be of low or uncertain quality.

Trad rack with emphasis on medium to large cams (likely C4 #4 useful on P2, or even two). Slings for trees.