Cast-less Point

Some fun moves.

. . . The two pitches can be combined, but then if Top-Roping in the normal way from the bottom, using a normal dynamic rope, if the climber falls near the bottom, then due to rope stretch the fall could be longer or harder and the climber could be injured. So if trying it that way, likely better to instead use a static (or "semi-static") rope. Or at least keep the climber under tension while close to the bottom of the route.

P1: Start at base of left-trending inside corner facing left, which is below left from obvious down-protruding nose about 25 ft up. Up the inside corner to just right of the obvious down-protruding nose. Up into the gully, then up its left side (with hands using right side of nose rock). When hands can reach a smaller down-protruding nose, got up on the right side of ridge which rises up from big lower down-protruding nose). Finish with gully + ridge by passing right of two old light-brown peeling-bark cedar trees, and just left of old light-brown peeling-bark cedar tree which splits low into two trunks.

P2: Continue up slab passing just left of old light-brown peeling-bark cedar tree with branches pointing downward. Finish to right-hand flat block 15-20 ft right of the big dead tree stump and just left of small living tree on summit platform.

warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber or someone setting up top anchor.

. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2018. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).

name: The southern part of the land once managed by the Smiley family has a great viewpoint on a big rock formation which looked a bit like the walls of a castle (unlike the platform at top of this route), and has a carriage road going over the top of it.

At the base of a left-trending inside corner facing left, which is below left from obvious down-protruding nose about 25 ft up.

• • See on this Photo

Top-Rope: For ideas how to set up anchor for Top-Roping, see Description page for this sector Smiley Slopes.

warning: If belaying for Top-Roping in the usual way from the bottom, using a normal dynamic climbing rope could result in a long injurious fall if the climber hangs or falls in the lower part of this route (because of "rope stretch" on a route this long). Therefore consider instead use a static or semi-static rope (instead of normal dynamic rope), or belay from near the top of the route (instead of the bottom).

Lead: Run-out at the top. Also some placements of low or uncertain quality.

Trad rack with emphasis on small-ish to medium cams, large stopper. And lots of slings for trees.

If belayer at bottom of P1 is positioned near seat under tree, consider placing low directional on ridge close above to reduce rope drag.