- Edit (TBD)
Description
This outstanding route is also known as Jackson's Wall Direct and shares its last pitch with that route. One of my favorite 9s in Boulder Canyon.
P1 begins about 50 feet (?) left of
Athlete's Feat
beneath a short right-facing dihedral about 15 feet off the deck. Climb the clean crack in the dihedral until you can traverse left to the obvious ledge (P1 crux - 5.8). Move left along the ledge until you reach a bolt. Optional belay here, or continue left and then up (5.6) until you get to a fair-sized ledge with a couple of fixed pins.
P2 (or 3) moves straight up to a left-facing right-leaning ramp. Go up the ramp until you can make a delicate traverse left (5.9) to another ramp leading to a fixed pin. Note that there is an off-route bolt on top of the first ramp that you can clip with a long sling - it's up to you whether you would rather risk a pendulum into the ramp or a 15-20 footer straight down onto a good stopper. Move straight up past the pin to a short slabby section (also 5.9 - possibly an RP placement) and belay on the ledge.
P3 (or 4) Finish with the last pitch of
Jackson's Wall
.
Protection
Standard rack, emphasis on smaller
Routes in Castle Rock
- 48South Face5.9+Trad