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Peak Mountain 3

Cussin' Crack

FA Harold Walton and party, early '50s
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Start up easy chimney with good pro and traverse left when possible, make tricky move up to large ledge and belay. Start up cracks and get into large and slippery V-slot. Cruise this crack system for a long pitch and belay on ledge. The third pitch is easy 5th scramble to summit.

The downclimb is mostly 3rd class with a couple 4th or easy 5th class moves down the north face with gullies and ramps (avoid doing this in the dark).

Eds. Note, this route has become quite smooth over the years and is more difficult for the short statured climber. Please be aware this is not your typical Front Range 5.7.

Protection

Small to large cams ... good selection up to #4 Camalot, a few nuts would be good, too. Set up anchors with cams also.


Routes in Castle Rock


  1. 28
    Cussin' Crack
    5.7+
    Trad