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MapDescription
This obvious crack ascends the South Face of Castle Rock just to the right of
Tongo
and
Atlas Shrugged
. Good hand jams and a few awkward moves up the large crack lead to a left-facing dihedral 20 feet off the ground. Look for the fixed pin under the roof (use a long runner to clip it to avoid nasty rope drag) and finish to the right after pulling over the roof on large holds. There are 2 bolts at the top (only 1 is shown in the Rolofson guidebook).
Protection
An assortment of medium cams (up to a #2 Camalot), quickdraws for the anchor, and a fixed pin near the top.
Routes in Castle Rock
- 39The Black Crack5.9+Trad