- Edit (TBD)
Description
Though slighted in some guidebooks, this is an outstanding, gymnastic line on beautiful rock, every bit as worthy as its famous neighbors to the left. With a burly crux at the third bolt, this is certainly a power route, but an engaging, slightly overhanging headwall with stellar pockets keeps things interesting until the very end.
Scamper onto the large flat boulder and squirm out to the lip. A big reach leads onto the hanging corner below the roof and a left-ward traverse. Big reaches to obvious jugs work right over the ceiling to a precarious stance on the lip. The airy crux comes in reaching the big jugs above the third bolt. A long stretch of big athletic moves between pumping pockets leads up the steep wall, ultimately offering some great rest opportunities. After passing a cool hueco, a brief slab crux guards the anchor.
Location
On the Ejection Wall, immediately right of
My Generation
.
Protection
~8 bolts to 2BA. Stick clip recommended.
Routes in The Gym
- 56Bottom Feeder5.13aSport