- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route follows two cracks to a right-facing flake, surmounts a bulge, then you get more climbing up to the anchors. There are plenty of stems and hand jams to work with as well. The bolts are boldly spaced (especially bolt 2, as well as the bolt on the bulge), but stances are solid so no PG-13 rating.
This thing is TALL. While cleaning, a 70 meter rope only had about 5 feet to spare. Plan accordingly.
There is also a LOT of loose rock on this thing. Wear a helmet while belaying.
With a little traffic, this could clean up and turn out to be a great climb. The movement is varied and interesting, so it is worth hopping on.
Location
Bolt 1 is above detached block in the dihedral 2 routes (or about 20 feet) to the left of
Muscles from Brussels
. The aforementioned cracks are obvious from the ground.
Protection
13 bolts + 2 rings for anchors. Thompson's guidebook says 11 bolts, but this is incorrect. Long draws help to cut the drag. Nothing less than a 70m rope is long enough!
Routes in The Gym
- 76Happy Hinzi5.10aSport