- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route is located on the beautiful slab of rock south of the Ejection Wall. As of Mar '05, it was marked by a small plaque at the base, and it is listed in the Van Horn guide (though not on the topo).
An excellent route on superb rock, this is one of the few routes at shelf that starts on bomber rock, and thus has no choss on the entire route. The hardest moves are at the very start with a difficult boulder problem. It's best to clip the low first bolt from the ground, or get a spotter. Once you reach the second bolt, it's all gravy, with some spectacular pockets on perfect stone. The upper climbing gets a bit tedious, as it doesn't rise to the level of the lower section, but it is still good climbing.
This route rivals the
Gym Arete
for the best 12- at the Gym, and is a must do!
Protection
[10] bolts, I think. Clip the first bolt from the ground, before you start.
Routes in The Gym
- 45Spontaneous Combustion5.12aSport