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Peak Mountain 3

The Long Lead

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Description

A fun 3 1/2 pitch route with spectacular scenery, decent rock (for The Supes), and some exposure. P1: Make a few face moves to get into a squeeze chimney. Ascend the chimney and cracks to a ledge. A short 5.6ish pitch. P2: Step up and right over a pocketed face, then up and left into a large right-facing dihedral (visible from the ground.) Climb up the dihedral until a face up and right brings you to a large ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 5.8, 140'. P3: Scramble up and left into a wide chimney. Bridge and chimney up past a chockstone (sling for pro) and then exit out right. Step across chimney to left and mantle over a small ledge, then low-angle face & crack to base of next chimney. P3 & 1/2: Scramble up the chimney (3rd class) then chimney for about 10' (5.easy) past a chockstone to summit.

Location

Located on the left (east) side of Barks Canyon Wall underneath a squeeze chimney. Descent is to scramble down the backside, then around to the East and down to the base.

Protection

Bring a standard rack from small to about a #3 camalot. Leave the micro pro at home because of rock quality; there are plenty of placements using only small to medium pro. Small Tricams work decently in pockets on face if runout is getting to you