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Peak Mountain 3

Bandito Route

FA 1984; S.Mish and D.Insley.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

I could take the high road But I know that I'm goin' low I'm a ban—I'm a bandito

Twenty One Pilots

Definitely a more technical route than Stroke It Gently and Erection Direct, so conceivably this could be the best climb on BCW. The jive-turkey hangers have been replaced and the rivets are gone. The roof crux sequence is tricky and only slightly lets up afterward. Pitch two has sparse protection, but follows the easiest terrain. The upper third pitch dihedral requires ones full attention by being tighter and tougher than The Long Lead's pitch two.

P1: From the top of large flake pile, mount slab, climbing past first clip to an equipoising ledge below roof. Clips two and three above protect the overhanging crux face. Continue up slightly lower-angled face into a right-arching crack and over another bulge. A mellow yellow, pocketed slab finishes at a three bolt belay.

P2: Climb lichen face above belay past piton (crossing The Long Road) and continue through a multitude of great pockets passing the fourth clip. The face thins near the fifth clip, where trending right gains a large flake system, which eventually reaches a large belay ledge with two double rings on left (beginning of The Glory Road’s pitch three). It's possibly to trend left slightly above clip five for a more direct P2 crux line to the anchors. The seam angling left from this ledge is the start of Lay Me Down.

P3: On the right side of big ledge, past a bush, there is a swelled, pocketed wall that gains a thin crack.  Follow crack and then face up to base of a steep dihedral. Stem the dihedral and finish on upper slab (same as The Long Road). Pro belay.

Location

To the right of Stroke It Gently and The Glory Road.

Protection

Standard Supes rack. One piton and twelve bolts (five clips and seven for belay/raps). Three 70m single line raps.