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Peak Mountain 3

The Glory Road

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Description

The first 2 pitches are great, the last 2 not so great. P1: Climb the open book to a large ledge with a bolt. 5.6 P2: Climb down and right to another dihedral, this one with a small overhang. Up the dihedral, pull the small overhang (5.7, a bit awkward but easy) then face & crack to a belay ledge. P3: Traverse right and slightly down (3rd & 4th class) to a moderate crack. Follow the crack up to a belay ledge. P4: Head up the chimney, then up and left to reach the belay bolts atop the wall.

Location

Start right of The Long Lead beneath a shallow, right-facing corner, just left of of a smooth, blank wall. Descent is either to scramble to The Long Lead descent or make a short rappel west, then scramble west, then down & around to the start of the climb.

Protection

Natural anchors with a few fixed pins. Bring a standard rack.