Mote in God’s Eye

Lincoln Lake has a concentration of V13s higher than almost anywhere else in the world. These problems range from super crimpy roofs to sustained compression squeezing. Mote is widely regarded to be the best, or at least most unique of Lincoln’s V13 circuit.

Begin from a stand start, on a left hand undercling and right hand edge in the middle of a nice vertical feature. Make an easy move to another left undercling (people have mistakenly started one move too high here), and launch into an extended compression sequence with very cryptic beta as well as temperature-dependent slopers. At the apex of the boulder, grab a horrible right pinch, carefully rock over onto the slab, and grab the glorious threadhole victory jug.

This is about 30 yards to the downhill hiker's left of the trail, sitting right outside the huge cave system in which

Clan of the Cave Bears

is located. It’s also just uphill from

Mindsets a Threat

. Start on good holds near the right of the wall. The sit start “Butterfinger” begins matched on a lower left edge but doesn’t add anything to the quality or difficulty.

This has not the best landing and a sketchy finish. A good amount of pads are needed.