Clan of the Cave Bears

This is one of CO’s finest compression lines. The enclosed nature of the cave is the only detracting quality. Perfect rock, sustained movement, a heartbreaking finish, and a sketchy victory slab make this problem so unique. Also, there’s minimal dab factor.

Start sitting, with your left hand on a fin feature and your right hand on an undercling sidepull at the bottom of the refrigerator block. Match the fin, and move out the the lip to begin the starfished and horizontal compression sequence, using technical footwork and lots of beta. A final crux awaits as you prepare to pull onto the hanging slab. Gather yourself, and continue through the hole into the sunlight.

Props to Dave, as usual, for the vision. This climb is a true alpine testpiece and a great summer project as the cave is always dark and generally several degrees colder than the rest of the area.

This is in the massive talus cave below Tomahawk, east of

8 Equals D

, or above Mote in God’s Eye. It’s not far off the trail, but this is hard to find as it’s impossible to see outside the cave. Look for a nice entrance to the hole at the top of the massive cliff/outcrop 2/3rds of the way to the talus from the high parking.

4 pads minimum. This has a pretty okay landing, but the boulder is quite tall and covers lots of area.