Evil Backwards

Evil Backwards is one of the most popular testpieces at the lake and a very cool, power/tension testpiece. This mega-classic lowball should be on every climber of the grade’s Evans ticklist.

Begin on the right side of the low roof on a left hand undercling crimp and a right hand finger-bucket/pocket. Make moves left on incut crimps with lots of tension to a crux foot swing. From here, exit the roof with more tension, and follow the seemingly “easy” arete until the boulder finally lets up at a ledge jug.

This mostly skin-friendly testpiece is a reflection of the CO pro developers’ ultimate alpine vision and has remained quite popular.

This is on the Evil Backwards Boulder, or the same bloc that has Kryptonite, Wheel of Wolvo, Dismantling,

etc

. It’s in its own little cave, left of Kryptonite/Dismantling. The Evil Boulder is the most massive of all them at the main area and is the first thing you come to if hiking in from the low parking. It faces up the talus field and is about 20 yards below Phobos.

4 pads. It has a classic butt dragging landing, but it covers lots of ground.