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Peak Mountain 3

The Black and Tan Towers

FA maybe Seth H. and Taylor B.
CREATED 
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Description

The Black and Tan Towers are located at the far east end of the Tan Wall. There are two options to reach the towers: descend down the standard Tan Wall 3rd Class ramp or for a short, easy approach after climbing one of the other Tan Wall routes, continue along the ridge and drop down the 2nd Class gully to the east. There are three towers and they are all easy walkoffs from one to the other.

Tower 1: pitch 1, locate two left-facing corners (choose one) on the far east side of the tower, and climb up to a thin 5.9 seam that will gain a nice belay terrace on the SE corner below a white-peg corner.

Pitch 2, climb the corner, and traverse left to gain the prominent, right-facing corner 5.7.

Tower 2: pitch 1, climb the wide crack system up to a nice belay stance, 5.8, 100 feet.

Pitch 2, climb the hand crack directly above the belay, and scoot left to some black rock with a fist crack and continue to the top along the ridge, 5.8, 200 feet.

Tower 3: pitch 1, climb the striking hand and finger crack up the center of the golden/orange tower, 5.8.

Protection

A single rack of small cams, doubles in hands and fists, and one BD #4.