- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a fun route with a few really good pitches and a couple of tolerable ones. It gets the sun all day, so is a good option if it is too cold to climb elsewhere.
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Climb into the wide crack from the right, and then climb up it until behind a little pinnacle. Continue straight up the wall for another 40 feet or so and belay on a small ledge. 5.9, 140ft.
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From the small ledge, traverse left for about 10 feet and climb up a nice, weathered series of cracks until a grassy terrace is reached. 5.8, 90ft.
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From the belay, head up and across the gully splitting the two towers and belay on a ledge below the obvious left-facing corner, about 30 feet from the edge of the wall. 5.8, 150ft
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Climb the corner. It is surprisingly steep and continuous. Excellent climbing. At the top of the corner, step left and climb to the next ledge. 5.11-, 120ft.
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Step slightly right and climb a short crack system 8 feet from the arete. This finishes on the ridge itself. Continue up the ridge past a little face climbing section. Belay where the ridge flattens out.
From this belay, a few hundred feet of easy scrambling will place you on the top.
Location
This route is located on the ridge to the right of
Noth'n But A Good Time
. The landmark feature on the route is a left-facing dihedral several hundred feet up on the south face of the tower that is furthest east on that ridge. To approach the route, walk past
Noth'n But A Good Time
and look for a wide, slightly grassy crack that begins 30 feet up the wall directly below the second tower from the end of the ridge.
Protection
Standard rack to #4 Camalot.
Routes in The Tan Buttresses
- 11Goat Food5.11-Alpine · Trad