- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route starts with the fun part of the
Gimp Route
and then climbs some more pleasant pitches in a nice position.
Start with the first two (fun) pitches of the
Gimp Route
, but belay on the far left of the grassy ledge atop the 2nd pitch.
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Step left around the arete onto the front side of the buttress and climb easy ground and grassy steps up for a little over a 100 feet to a really nice grassy ledge. Walk left 25 feet or so from the arete to belay below a flake system. 5.6.
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Climb into the flake system, then follow the arete to another ledge after 60 feet or so. Belay below an obvious, steep, hand and fist crack. 5.9.
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Climb the hand and fist crack to the top of the wall. 5.9+, maybe 50 feet. This pitch can easily be avoided by climbing the gully to the right.
Location
The same start as the Gimp Route, on a broken 30 foot high pillar at the far end of the buttress with Fallen Angel and Noth'n but a Good Time.
Protection
Standard Rack through #4 C4 Camalot
Routes in The Tan Buttresses
- 6Anniversary Route5.9+Alpine · Trad