- Edit (TBD)
Description
This wandering line tackles the center of the roofed wall. The first two pitches courses a line through great rock with the second pitch offering amazing position traversing out the roof.
Pitch 1. Start in a sunken corner that goes over a bulge. Continue up a splitter corner for 20', then at the apex of the corner traverse slightly right and up to the first bolt. From here, weave your way up and left up a few tricky spots of delicate face climbing. The upper portion is protected by small to medium-sized gear. 15' below the anchors at a stance in a shallow corner, reach high and left to a good hold to go out and around the dirty corner immediately above you, (130') 5.10+.
Pitch 2. From the belay, head straight up to a bolt at the roof. From here, traverse out right over the lip of the roof past a bolts. Fun movement on easier terrain gets you to a belay ledge with anchors, (100') 5.9+.
Either rappel from here barely making it down with a single 70m or traverse right to finish on the last pitch of
Denouement
.
Location
This route goes up the center of the inset wall created by the large, left-arching roof. It is in-between
Coxswain
and
Denouement
.
Protection
Doubles from small to #1, singles from #1-#3, lots of shoulder length slings, and nuts.
Routes in Middle Mother's
- 25Indirect Objects5.10+Trad