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Description
The route is a finishing pitch high on Middle Mother's Buttress: see Location.
The main attraction to this climb is a short steep hand and finger crack just right of a dihedral. When viewing Middle Mother's head on, this crack is around the corner to the left of the left skyline arete.
Climb the beautiful hand and finger crack in dike rock up to good stance. Continue up a great, low-angle, hand crack that leads directly to the rappel tree atop Middle Mother's.
Location
This climb is an optional finishing pitch to either
Flora Dora
or
Free Falling
.
If approaching from
Flora Dora
: From the second belay, climb a short distance up the dihedral until you can step left into a finger crack that leads around a roof to the left into the main part of the climb.
If approaching from
Free Falling
: From just below the huge boulder lying against the wall, traverse right around the corner to a good ledge. From here, the main crack is obvious. Follow good cracks and face climbing until you gain the crack.
Protection
Nuts and cams to hand size.
Routes in Middle Mother's
- 5On Golden Pond5.10aTrad