Spirit of Waternomee

A 60 foot flake that overhangs slightly the whole way. Grab a jug, layback to the next jug, rinse, repeat. If this route was located in Rumney it would be a contender for one of the best 10d's there, and you would have to wait in line for it even on weekdays. On its own it is an amazing route, and better still is its proximity to the crag's classic 5.12. If you head up this with 16 or so draws you can also hang draws on "Danen Direct" on your way down making it the perfect warmup.

In the middle of the Waternomee main wall, this is the obvious flake that leads to the top of the cliff. 

7-8 bolts. Stick clip the first bolt.

NOTE: Bolt #4 is spinning in its hole and can not be loosened or tightened. It may or may not hold a fall. Fortunately the distance between bolt 3 and bolt 5 is reasonable and the climber is unlikely to hit anything in the event of catastrophe.