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Peak Mountain 3

Crag Dweller

FA Sykes, rope solo '03
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Burly, primarily awkward sport climb at the bottom of the Waternomee climbing area.  Towards the top of the steep path heading to the wall, you see a shorter wall with an overhanging face.  On the left of this is a short arete and upper face that Jon Sykes bolted and apparently climbed. You kind of grab the arete, step on it where possible, but generally the lower 20 feet of this line is dominated by your body getting sucked down and right into the overhang where there are very limited right foot opportunities, and then grappling with the strange broken cleft above the overhang to find good enough hand holds.  All the while your left foot and leg is clawing at the arete to gain some stability.   Long story short, it's a sandbag at the 5.8 grade in the guidebook and perhaps even stiff at the 5.9 I am giving it here.   Not a bad climb but also not a "warmup" unless you already did gymnastics at home before coming to the crag.

Location

Basically the first bolted climb you see upon entering the Waternomee climbing arena.

Protection

4 bolts I believe.