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MapDescription
On the north face, just uphill from the low point of the rock are two right-facing crack/flakes - this is the right one that leads into a right-arching seam with 3 fixed pins. A #4 Camalot is nice for the initial crack. The climbing past the pins requires great trust in one's footwear and a bit of trust in the upward driven pins! Screamers are recommended for clipping these, as a pulled pin could change the situation for the leader. Supplement with RPs, and belay when the difficulties end. It could be an "s" pitch, depending on the state of the pins. The second pitch is stellar 5.10 crack climbing with great position. Continue to the summit on the
East Ridge
.
Protection
RPs to #4 Camalot, screamers.
Routes in The Maiden
- 12Dream Street Rose5.11b/cTrad