We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Cunning Stunt

FA Jim Erickson and Nancy McNeil
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route can be used as a variation to the West Buttress overhang. It starts with a perfect hand crack in a left-facing flake and opens up to 4-4.5" that makes for an easy layback. The crux is half way up the crack. After the crack, the route traverses right to a pin and then up diagonally left followed by two more pins to the Crow's Nest. The "S" really only comes into play after the traverse section. The 11a section (the crack) can be sewn up.

We used double ropes and 2' slings on almost every piece to reduce rope drag.

Location

This route starts on the North side of the Maiden downhill and left of the Direct North Face route.

Protection

Up to #4 Camalot. 3 pins. Eye bolt at the Crow's Nest.