South Crack

This has got to be one of the best cracks in the area! It's the obvious crack just up from the low point of the Maiden (on the S. face), look up. Great protection, setting and movement make this one a gem. 5.10 climbing leads to the final pumpy sequence where the crack leans right and the crux face climbing exit. (Or was that the pump factor?) Save a #3.5 or 4 Friend for the last piece. Rated .11c, it felt more like .11a to both me and my partner. There is a 2 bolt anchor at that you can descend with a 70m. It is best to clean this pitch via following due to the traversing nature. Combine with

East Ridge

,

West Overhang

and

Dream Street Rose

(on the North face) for the ultimate Maiden tour!

Nuts and cams to #4 Friend, no fixed anchor.