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Peak Mountain 3

Connect Top Central Fins

FA Ken Roberts + David Smith
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Main purpose is to reach the top anchors of the Central Fins, to set up Top-Rope.

If looking instead for an adventure which combines some thoughtful moves with scrambling on dirt + grass + loose rock, likely the route :"Connect High Chouinard" is a better choice (first half shared with this route).

Lots of horizontal traversing in the later part of this route, so likely difficult to protect a Following climber against injury if they fell.

Also it's difficult to avoid lots of rope drag because of zig-zag in the middle section.

First climb the route "Hand Traverse". Then above the notch, angle up right on loose dirt to reach a left-facing corner with ramp on its left side.

. . . Stopping to build an anchor and belay here will help avoid rope drag.

Instead of going up that corner, angle up left on ramp about 12-16 ft, then straight up through a notch about 10 ft, then traverse horizontal right about 20 ft (or diagonal up right). Turn left to go straight up gully past a chimney on its right side (or perhaps could climb the chimney?). Partway up the gully soon exit Right, and carefully get up onto flat ledge. Look horizontal to see the anchor bolt on top of protruding rock -- That's the goal of this route. Traverse horizontal right with some downward moves, until reach small alcove with rock roof. The anchor on top of this small roof could be used to belay access to other anchors to set up Top-Roping.

descent

: Use the two-bolt anchor above the small alcove to protect getting down to the lower anchor for the route "Central Fins - Left Corner", then rappel from that anchor to get back to starting platform.

. . . (or perhaps rappel from the upper two-bolt anchor in nigh alcove.

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

Start at the top of the route Hand Traverse, above the notch.

see on this Photo

Protection

No fixed hardware for Leading, but this route ends (sideways) to the higher two-bolt anchor of the route "Central Fins - Left Corner".

Leading Trad: Standard rack (but not much use for large cams). Slings to wrap around trees could be useful.

Lots of horizontal traversing in the later part of this route, so likely difficult to protect a Following climber against injury if they fell.

Makes no sense to do this route as a Top-Rope.