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Peak Mountain 3

Upper Right Face

FA Joshua Reinig
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Lots of enjoyable moves. If don't find all the right holds and use them well at the crux sequences, it's definitely going to feel harder than the quoted difficulty.

directions

: Start by going horizontal left about 20 feet from the two-bolt anchor for "Right End Ledge". Next upward, aim for the two cracks under right side of big bulge in upper right side of Central Fins area. Figure out how to get to the top of the cracks (crux) and around right side of bulge.

Next go gentler under obvious crack (of the route "Upper Right Corner") which is above left. Soon leave ramp and go up for 10-15 ft roughly parallel to crack, then up diagonal 15 ft or 20, then aim up toward obvious bush and finish under right side of bush to rope-around-bush anchor (or continue gentle up right 20 ft to bolt anchor).

descent

: See description of the route "Upper RIght Corner".

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location

At (or left of) the two-bolt anchor for the route "Right End Ledge".

See T on this Photo

Protection

Intermediate bolts for leading (not sure how many) up to rope-around-bush anchor, or higher up right to two-bolts-connected-by-climbing rope with rappel ring anchor.

. . Higher top anchor: Both bolts and upper hanger are 304 Stainless steel. Lower hanger + rappel ring are Plated steel. All installed 2018.

. . Intermediate bolts + hangers are all 304 Stainless steel, installed 2018.

For ideas on how to get access to top of this route to set up a top anchor,

see the Area description page for this sector Dostie

.