Central Fins - Left Corners

Many thoughtful moves on big features.

PG-13

? Crux is rather intimidating on lead -- and a fair chance getting hurt if fall there -- if clipping bolts in the

normal

way. But reasonably safe protection can be set up for it with some cleverness -- see below under Protection.

directions

: Start under obvious deep right-facing corner about 15-ft-high, capped by a large roof rock.

Up under the roof rock and exit right to a ledge. Next up trending right to left-most of the obvious cracks, which has horizontal "branches" and a ledge on left side halfway up. Start up that overhanging crack (crux), but exit left with hands over wide ledge . . . (unusual + a bit awkward ... but positive holds available through the sequence) . . . (For strategies to protect it, see further below).

Next up from the left end of that ledge, trending left to the right-facing corner. Up that to reach two-bolt anchor below top of wall, or continue higher to small alcove with roof, with a two-bolt anchor on top.

Variation High Finish

(5.3, no bolts or other hardware): Up past small alcove with roof on its right side. Up along right side of right-facing corner with lots of dirt + grass + loose rock -- and two sequences on more sound rock. A bit below the obvious tree, exit Left up from the right-facing corner. Then up through another thoughtful sequence on sound rack, then diagonal up right to flat platform by obvious tree, which can be used to construct a top anchor. (Camalots in range 0.5 - 2 are especially likely to be useful for protection).

warning

: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Obvious deep right-facing corner about 15-ft-high, capped by a large roof rock.

see N on this Photo

Two top anchors. The lower is mainly intended for those leading or top-roping only this route. The upper anchor is mainly intended for those who want to set  up a top-rope on

another

route after climbing up this one.

Lower anchor is at the top of the upper steep part: Two bolts connected with chain, with ramshorn / pigstail for simple quick transition to rappel or lower-off. So far no connector between the two bolts, and no hardware for lower-off or rappel.

. . . Bolts and upper hanger are 304 Stainless. Lower hanger and ramshorn are 316 Stainless. Chain and quick-links are Plated steel. Installed 2018.

Higher anchor is in the protruding rock which forms the roof of the small alcove -- two bolts (lower hanger has horizontal hole).

. . . Bolts and upper hanger are 304 Stainless, but the lower hanger is Plated steel. Installed 2018.

. . . There is also a loop of thick cord through hole in rock where the alcove meets the roof.

9 intermediate bolts for leading up to the lower anchor.

. . . (perhaps 1 more if protecting the crux in a non-normal way).

11 intermediate bolts (including the lower anchor) for leading to the upper anchor.

. . . (bolts + hangers are 3/8-inch, 304 Stainless, installed 2018).

Leading

: Likely should call the "sport" Lead protection rating PG-13 if clipping bolts in the "normal" way, since falling on the crux sequence could easily result in hitting a sloping ledge below - (though might take a bit of cleverness to less-strenuously make the "normal" clip of the bolt inside the overhanging corner at the crux).

Non-normal: The crux likely can be made reasonably safe by using the bolt higher just above the ledge just left of the main corner. That bolt is non intended to be clipped in the midst of

climbing

through the crux. Rather clip beforehand, either by hauling up a stick-clip on a lowered bight of rope, or by clipping an etrier / aid-ladder (or some linked slings) to the bolt inside corner, and stepping up higher on the Aid to clip the higher bolt, then go back down (or not) to the bottom if the corner and climb it Free.

. . . Another idea might to place Trad gear in the crux crack (perhaps size 0.25 - 0.4 C4) might make it less likely to hit the ledge below (or not hit so hard) - see Comment below about special current situation.

Rope drag? After getting through the crux the route goes left, so might consider reaching back down and unclipping from the crux bolts to the right -- likely want to use a personal leash / PAS or long sling to enable to reach lower to the one inside the corner.

. . . (Lengthening the sling on that bolt makes it more likely to hit the ledge below harder or flatter if take a fall).

Top-Rope: The lower anchor is better suited for Top-Roping with less abrasion of rope over edges. If coming from the top of another nearby climb, likely best to first go to and connect to the upper anchor, beore moving down to the lower anchor.

For ideas on how to get access to top of this route to set up a top anchor, see

the Area description page for this sector Dostie

.