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Peak Mountain 3

Third Kingdom/Papillion

FA In Rossiter's book
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Description

Awesome route and wild exposure! This route takes the huge overhanging/slanting dihedral at the top of the 3rd's North Face. The best approach is by doing Northwest Passage. However, you can reach the big C-shaped gap at the start of the dihedral from College Dropout or another close by East Face route.

From the belay at the gap, place a #0 TCU, do a couple face moves and then step out into the void. The whole route can be aided clean (which is the way I did it) with a set of TCUs and cams. There are two fixed pins and a fixed nut with a huge wire on it, in the dihedral. Every placement is bomber.

A small smattering of bird crap will not bother you (if your aiding it) as you enjoy the incredible exposure on this climb. About 3/4 of the way through the dihedral a small crack leads out and onto the east face, where some runout 5.7 climbing takes you to the top (use slings, quickdraws if you want to eliminate drag).

Protection

A set of TCUs and a few cams (0.5 to 2).